My Day on Stage 9 of the Pekoe Trail

We started early from Bogawanthalawa. The sky was overcast and heavy, like it had been thinking about raining all night, and finally decided to go for it. By the time we stepped onto the trail, there was a drizzle. But honestly, it just made everything feel more alive. The green around us seemed greener. The mist rolled in gently like a blanket. There was this quiet magic in the air.

Before we got moving, we stopped at the local market. The kind of place where you can still feel the rhythm of everyday life – old uncles chatting over tea, the smell of fresh rotis in the air. We grabbed a few snacks and headed to a friend’s house nearby in the tea estate. That quick visit turned into one of my favourite moments of the day. They made us hot tea and simple food, and we sat around talking, listening to the rain tapping gently on the tin roof.

Then the real hike began

Walking through the tea estates was like stepping into a painting — rows and rows of tea bushes blanketing the hills in perfect symmetry. Everything smelled fresh and earthy. It wasn’t long before we reached the Bogawanthalawa Tea Factory. We took a short tour there, learning how tea gets from plant to cup. I never knew there was so much depth to something I drink every morning. We even had a tasting session with a tea master, which made me appreciate Ceylon tea in a whole new way.

After that, we hiked further into the hills. It was raining again — harder this time — but it only added to the atmosphere. We passed more plantations and met a few local tea pluckers. They were working quietly in the rain, smiles on their faces, hands moving with the ease of experience. It was humbling to watch.

Towards Haritha Kanda

The trail eventually brought us to the foot of Bathalagala Rock. It looked like a giant wrapped in mist. Climbing it was a little slippery but manageable, and so worth it. At the top, the fog cleared just enough to give us a glimpse of the tea fields below. It was breathtaking. From there, we could also see Haritha Kanda in the distance — another mountain I’ve climbed before. If you have the time, it’s absolutely worth the detour.

After catching our breath and taking a few photos, we moved on and found ourselves in a massive, open grassland. I honestly don’t have the words to describe it. Just imagine endless green, soft wind, and complete stillness — like the world paused for a while. We saw a group of hikers camping out there, making coffee and enjoying the view. I envied them a little. I wish we had more time to stay.

Bopaththalawa Farm

By now, we’d been hiking for around two hours. The landscape kept changing — from rolling hills to farmland, to forested patches. Soon, we passed Bopaththalawa Farm, then walked through a few charming little villages. Now and then, we’d meet someone, wave, smile. It felt like we were seeing a side of Sri Lanka that few tourists get to experience.

Our guide, Nirosh, was a gem. He shared stories about the region, talked about tea culture, and explained all the little customs and quirks of the villagers. His passion for this place was contagious.

The leeches were out

Eventually, we entered a dense, misty jungle. The rain had made it a bit tricky — and yes, the leeches were out. If you’re planning this hike during the rainy season, bring leech socks or some repellent! But even with the occasional leech panic, the forest was peaceful and calming. You could hear your own breath, your footsteps, the soft rustle of trees. Nature at its purest.

After nearly five hours of walking, we reached Dayagama Village. It felt like arriving home. We stopped at a tiny shop for sweets and snacks — I grabbed a warm coconut pancake, which tasted like heaven — and then continued to the village temple for a quick visit.

Sri Lankan hospitality

Finally, we reached Nirosh’s place, and I can’t tell you how happy I was to see that front door. He and his family welcomed us in like old friends. There was hot water for showers (thank god), another amazing cup of tea waiting for us, and for dinner — the best Sri Lankan rice and curry I’ve had so far. Spicy, flavorful, cooked with love.

We were lucky

Just as we were finishing our dinner, we heard the sound of drums outside — a soft, rhythmic echo that carried through the cool night air. Nirosh smiled and told us the village kovil was celebrating a traditional event that evening. We were lucky — it’s not something every traveler gets to witness.

A small group of children walked by, playing drums and singing devotional songs to the gods. There was something so pure and heartfelt about it — their little voices blending with the rhythm, the laughter, the reverence. We stood there for a while, listening, watching. The air was filled with the scent of incense and the distant crackle of firecrackers. It felt like we were part of something timeless.

“Some Trails Stay With You”

Later, we sat with Nirosh and his family, chatting over one last cup of tea. Stories were shared, laughter passed between us like old friends. And when we finally turned in for the night, I drifted off to sleep in the quiet comfort of the hills — heart full, soul rested.

This wasn’t just a hike. It was a story. A slow, beautiful unraveling of nature, culture, and people — all experienced on foot. It was one of those days that make you fall in love with travel all over again. And I have Ceynity to thank for that.

If you’re even thinking about doing the Pekoe Trail, do it. Especially Stage 9. Trust me.